Merlot came out of nowhere a decade ago to become one of the hottest red wines and it still ranks second only to Cabernet Sauvignon in sales. The land rush for Merlot plantings yielded a lot of grapes grown in the wrong places, usually too warm, making for wines that are simply soft and fruity, with no structure.

Candor takes advantage of excellent vineyard spots all over the state, from Paso Robles to Lodi to Santa Barbara County. The mix of fruit makes for a Merlot that has plenty going on: plummy, dark stone fruit, spice and a hint of smoke, and just enough grip on the finish to round out the package. The maturity and development of the base vintage is balanced by a splash of freshness from the next; the result may not fit into a vintage pigeon-hole, but it tastes delicious.

Candor focuses on two of California’s best and most popular grapes, Merlot and Zinfandel. The ups and downs of both varieties demonstrates that popularity and quality aren’t always the same thing.

Zinfandel is California’s signature grape, and a variety that has gone through more rough patches and glory days than most. Zinfandel in the glass can be thrilling, and it can be absolutely generic.

Great Zinfandel grapes grow in pockets all over the state, and the Hope family have done their homework. This wine benefits from a combination of hardy, gnarly old vines, some of them over 50 years old, and exuberant new ones, all meticulously farmed. Blended together across vineyards and vintages, Candor Zinfandel has real panache—bright berry fruit, spice, and that undefinable zing that says it’s really Zinfandel.

No sleight-of-hand, no mirrors, just straight-ahead Merlot and Zinfandel.